Wedding Day 6/27/09

The day began in the business center of the hotel, posting my blog - and learning many secrets to making the most of our time here at the hotel (while I was typing and uploading pictures, my traveling companion Ann was busy making friends with other people there and getting valuable information).

The wedding was laid back and simply beautiful (seems inadequately common this word...but I can't seem to stop saying it since I arrived in Costa Rica...!) - the rain (normally every day this time of year between 3-5pm) held off, but the sun didn't beat down on us in our wedding finery, either. There was enough light, however, to be noticed and attract more than a few onlookers (including an iguana on the roof).

Unfortunately, in discovering - as I was walking away from the ceremony towards the after-wedding drinks on the pier - the trick of formatting my memory card to access it again...I erased the pictures I'd taken leading up to that moment (including one of the iguana). I'm sure I lost a few that no one else had taken. One or two that I thought were really quite nice... but the ones that I had left, of the pier and the sunset, well... I think they're enough to give an idea. And I'll let them speak for themselves in the meantime, until I can upload some that others have taken.

(There was an old couple on the pier when Michelle - the bride - was walking out, who said that they were celebrating their anniversary. They congratulated her, and exchanged kisses.)


The groom (Eric) with his father and two of his daughters.







(The obligatory glorious sunset... :-)

Day 1 6/26 - Coffee tour and Puntarenas

While working on my post this morning, my travel companion (Ann) for the first part of my trip was chatting with other people in the hotel (people started waking up as I was working on my post). As it happens, she met the owner of the hotel who was sitting in the computer room and talking to people that were there. He was very gracious and personable, and had the cutest little 11-month old boy named Ben, who took an instant liking to my camera case. The owner Vincent is from France, and his wife is Scottish, so Ben will grow up speaking French, English, and Spanish.

We took a taxi to a hotel nearby where we met Joe, who drove us (and a few other people we picked up along the way) on a tour to the Café Britt headquarters in Heredia. Joe told us that we would like Heredia, it was much more beautiful than San Jose. Then he told us that he was from there, and we laughed. We had to

admit that he was right - it is a beautiful area, with gardens

and flowers, less crowds, and more relaxed.

The grounds of the coffee plantation were beautiful - lush and very well maintained. There were coffee plants and mangoes and bananas.









There is a display there explaining a tradition unique to Heredia, involving puppet-like figures and humor to tell subversive local stories of power struggles between landowners and workers.

Here I must say something about the tour... Our tour guides were bilingual, seamlessly moving between Spanish and English, joking in both languages. It became evident that it was somewhat rehearsed, a routine that they played out for the benefit of the visitors - but it was done so intelligently, and playfully, and with such obvious love for the traditions that they came from, what they were doing, and for the coffee that is their livelihood - that I left feeling very impressed. The tour guides included the owner himself and his niece (a living example of how independence - the government gave coffee plants to the people! - gave economic opportunity to those formerly disadvantaged), and toward the end involved them dressing up in costumes, using something of their comedic theatrical tradition on a stage, to play out some of the history of coffee for us themselves. This could have been terribly cheesy and a little off-putting in an overdone way (they were unabashed capitalists, as well) - but they were such consummate performers, so practiced at it while still having a lot of fun, that it was thoroughly enjoyable - and gave us a taste of more than just the coffee.

Oh, yeah... and lunch! Delicious... mostly typical Costa Rican fare.




As foreseen, the free coffee samples kicked in and I was talking fast all afternoon! We got a transfer from the hotel in San Jose here to the Doubletree Hilton in Puntarenas. We made use of the phrasebook to ask about the landscape, and find out the latest on the US soccer team on the trip. Through mountains and clouds - past hidden volcanos and lush valleys - along the Interamerican Highway. It turns out we have to be careful about what is included in our 'All-inclusive!' hotel (I'm in the lobby of the hotel to use the 'free' wi-fi)... but it is a beautiful spot, and we look forward to relaxing and making the most of it. The evening ended with dinner with our friends and their parents, and a visit to the hot tub, before the day's activity caught up with us (and the coffee buzz wore off) and we succumbed to the call of the comfortable beds.

¡Hemos llegado!

I've arrived safely in Costa Rica with my friend Ann, after a long but smooth day of traveling!

As I was flying into Dallas (the connecting airport where we met up), there were big thunder head clouds that were like piles of crisply defined light - as big as mountains - that I found I had a hard time looking at in one place for more than a second or two. My eyes got crossed and pained if I tried. But I couldn't look away! I don't know if the sun was reflecting so strongly off of them or what, but the thought occurred to me that it was the opposite of the ominous part of the cloud below - a beauty so intense that maybe we were not made to or meant to see it, at least not for very long. There is a poem in that, that I have begun to write...

Once arrived at the airport, we were asked to use only the official taxi service (the others are illegal), and found our hotel van driver. As it happened, there were other travelers that were being picked up, and we had a very amiable trip back to the Guesthouse/Backpackers Hostel, learning about where everyone was from, and what we were planning to be doing here. We met Christie from Holland, Clémence from France, and later Patricia from Switzerland. After settling in to our room and settling the bill, we went over to the hostel and found a nice spot by the quieter bar to visit and have a drink (and black bean nachos). Samantha, our friendly and knowledgeable bartender, graciously prepared us to be more savvy travelers (tips on tipping! and exchange rate).

The Costa Rica Guesthouse and Backpackers Hostel are across from each other on a relatively quiet street near the central part of San Jose. The hostel has a very nice pool and tropical gardens, and there is a very busy bar connected where it was 'Reggae Night'. The music was good, the place was hopping! - but being weary travelers and it being very hot inside, we opted for the quieter place with friendly people where we could sit and chat, and chill out, and enjoy the conversation.

I was trying to capture the SOUNDS of this place, early this morning, as I got up and got some coffee (very good!) and had a few moments to myself. So far, I have been unsuccessful... but I have heard at least 4 different birds that I have never heard before (or at least, don't remember from my first trip here). I feel certain I will have another chance to capture those sounds, and I will share them when I do.






Ah... beautiful. :-) J'arrive!

Costa Rica here I come!

So, I have my shots, my travelers insurance (including the most enjoyable Terms of Use I've ever had the pleasure of reading), Spanish phrasebook, mosquito netting, and I'm starting to get really excited! I leave in 2 days.

(If, like me, you are a nerd when it comes to maps, you can follow my progress on a map here.)

First stop (after overnight in San Jose) is my friend's wedding in Puntarenas at an all-inclusive hotel. This will be an interesting experience for me, as it is not the way I usually travel(!). It will be fun and relaxing, and my roommate for that part is also interested in seeing what kinds of fun activities we might find to do. On the agenda is a group outing to a protected island where turtles live. We will likely go snorkeling there.

Next will be a visit to an experiential learning organization in San Ramon (Earth Education International), where I plan to connect with a colleague who has been active in promoting sustainability in the field of study abroad, and learn what I can about what is happening there and hopefully be of some use. I hear that San Ramon is known for coffee, so I hope to learn something about that, too, while I'm there! (And don't be surprised if my posts gain speed and intensity afterwards...)

The third major portion of my trip will be volunteering at a site near the Tenorio Volcano National Park. I learned that I will be one of only 2 volunteers at my site (Las Heliconias, mentioned here) through the organization that did my placement (i-to-i). It looks like I may have more of an opportunity to practice my Spanish than I had anticipated! In looking at guidebooks and online, I have gleaned that Tenorio Volcano National Park is northwest of Lake Arenal (and the Volcano), and Monteverde. It is a relatively recent addition to the National Parks, and therefore not yet as frequented by tourists (and a little more remote). I'll be staying in a community that banded together to fight deforestation (successfully).

In the area I'll be going to, there are apparently mud pots and thermal rivers, and one in particular (Río Celeste) that has a unique teal color, and a spectacular waterfall. The area is known for cheese-making. It is the beginning of the rainy season, so I am likely to be out in the rain a lot, or at least damp. They recommend bringing rain boots. And I'm not sure how much I'll be able to access email while I'm at this site (for two weeks). But, aside from posting here on my blog... I must confess to looking forward to focusing on the world around me that is actual, and not just 'virtual'. I am ready for a truly adventurous journey, that will incorporate all of me - body and senses, intellect, and heart and soul, as well.

I am looking forward to all of the sights, sounds, tastes, insights, connections, challenges, inspiration, and seeds planted in me that I will encounter. And sharing them with all of you who are reading! (Please feel free to comment...and ask questions!).

A Word About My Dad

My Dad - an exchange student in Paris in 1959, trained as a Geographer, who specialized in G.I.S. (Geographic Information Systems, computer mapping) - gave us a connection to France, and an open and globally-minded view, including an appreciation of other cultures and our own responsibility to be understanding and compassionate citizens and travelers in the world. Growing up eating french bread at almost every meal, the lasting ties he had with his French host family that he shared with us, and hearing him speak French, influenced my own decision to be a French major in college, and choose to study abroad to learn another language.

He suffered a severe stroke right after retiring from being a professor in 2004, and has had a long journey to where he is now. Two years ago, he declared June 16th "Daughter's Day" - and this year, we celebrated in Vermont, where part of the day involved putting in a little garden for him outside of the bedroom where he'll be staying much of the summer.

He chose corn, squash, and beans - a trio of compatible/companion vegetables traditionally grown together by Native Americans. (They are called 'The Three Sisters'). I had heard of this combination, but didn't remember exactly how they were supposed to be spaced and placed together for optimal benefit (I found this link just now - should have checked online before!). The beans are a nitrogen fixer for the corn (although not until the second year of planting in the same place, and so on). The corn provides a stalk for the beans to grow on, and the bean plants add some stability to the corn stalks. The squash plants help to keep the weeds at bay and retain moisture in the soil (because of their large leaves).

The plot we made was a lot smaller than the suggested one in the link above (but still took a lot of effort!), and has only one squash plant (a zucchini - we figured one was enough!). We put marigolds around the edge, and a couple of basil plants. Nula, the dog, was cheering us on (and chasing bugs). It may not work as well as we envision it, but hopefully will be successful enough to produce some food. It will be fun to see what happens! Check back later this summer to see how they're doing....!

I just want to take a moment here to say a word of thanks. I am proud of my Dad, and what he has overcome to be able to help me put that plot in the earth. Also, if it were not for my Dad, I would not even be here!... but I also would not have the freedom to be pursuing this transition -writing this blog - with as much ease or sense of support.

Happy Father's Day, Dad! (Thank you)

The last 2 years (Part 2): (leaping!... in fits and starts)

II.

I decided to let myself dream… picture myself where I would be doing something that brought me joy, and also where I would be doing good work. I started looking into different programs – where I could work on my Spanish and/or practice my French - and to work out a timeline. The reality of an imminent change gave me hope, and egged me on. I found out that the WWOOF program existed in France, and I was ecstatic at the thought (room and board on an organic French farm, in exchange for worthwhile honest work in some beautiful place, and participating in cultural exchange with people who are no doubt passionate about what they are doing - while learning the French vocabulary for gardening!)… and thus, my plan began to take shape.

To begin to lighten my load for this leap, I donated my long hair, and got a short (short!) haircut. I decided to do the honest thing, and give plenty of notice at my job, before going on a planned trip - a little over a month before the date I chose to leave. My boss was not so surprised, appreciated the extra notice, and seemed genuinely excited about my plans to travel and get experience working on organic farms, and volunteering in a Spanish-speaking country. So far, so good.

The thing that was still worrying me a little was how I was going to pay for the plane ticket over to Europe. As it happened, my flight to England to visit family was oversold, and by volunteering to delay my departure by one day, I got a voucher for a round-trip ticket anywhere the airline flies directly. It seemed another indication that I was on a good path.

Then, when in England, I learned about a lot of good things happening in the areas of health and sustainability there, too (Green Gym, Natural England, Countryside Recreation Network, to give an idea). It convinced me to add the UK to my WWOOF plans.

Upon my return, I went to a regional conference for international educators, made some contacts, and then (gulp!) left my full-time job. Immediately after that, I met someone who became pretty important to me, who was very encouraging of my plans to travel.

I began the (very long, as it turns out...!) process of getting rid of stuff and trying to get my apartment ready to sell. I won’t bore my readers here with a detailed description of the various things I thought I would do and when – of the various deadlines I gave myself, and things I thought I might be imminently doing…that passed, and/or did not pan out (and left my resources depleted). But rather, will say that the process of getting my apartment pared down to the barest minimum, and making definite plans for my travel, proved more difficult than I had anticipated.

As with many things, I suspect, that are good for us to do, but not as easy as we imagine them – it was a real challenge, that involved looking at more than just my stuff. The whole process involved a bit more loss and heartache than I’d anticipated. We are very conditioned to feel that we need a lot of stuff. To think that it defines who we are – to have a lot of our identity tied up in things we can hold and store. In the end, I had to see it as a way of freeing myself for what will come, that is less tangible, and more life-affirming.

So, I’ve made it through so far, intact and, I think, better for it – and still on track with my exit strategy (in general). I am feeling a bit lighter, too (in all senses of the word). My apartment is on the market, the garden is looking good, it’s a good time of year to be selling… and I have my first adventures planned. I have a backpack, and am going to Costa Rica.

The last 2 years (Part 1)

So, to bring this blog up to speed, I will give a short account of my life in the last two years, leading up to where I am now... (in two installments).

I.

As I returned to my Boston home, taking in that beautiful, sad, heart-warming (the outpouring of love for my Mom was quite something), profound experience… I had a lot of food for thought.

At the time, I was reading ‘In Defense of Food’ by Michael Pollan [link here to poem, reading list – coming soon!!], and it meant that I was quite literally very aware of food, and the ways we eat it, at that time. Friends of our family (and people from our Quaker community) brought us big, hearty, delicious meals – and my entire family, for the first time in years (well - ever really, if you include all the grandchildren and daughters-in-law that my Mom had acquired, as well as the aunts and uncles and our grandparents!) was able to enjoy many of them all together. My Mom felt present in a way that she hadn’t for some time, as she always cooked and prepared for those occasions – and loved them. The whole experience… felt quite wholesome, and made me less afraid of dying. If you have lived a good life, been true to your self and others, and loved well. These things, I realized, were the most important.

In thinking about being true, I realized that I was not happy at my job at that time, and really wanted to move on from it. I began jobhunting….needless to say nothing panned out right away… and then, after a little over a year of interviewing with no success, and realizing that I was not increasing my chances of getting the job I wanted by staying in the one I had - I decided that I didn’t just need a new job; I needed an exit strategy.

I have a condo that I bought when I moved up here from Virginia, about three and a half years ago. There was green space behind it when I bought it, that was taken away just weeks later by the management company, acting supposedly on behalf of a couple of owners who wanted to build a parking lot. My heart went out to the green creatures that were buried under the gravel that got laid down, but thankfully the parking lot hasn’t happened. It’s a long story (read more here - link to Lorax story coming soon!), but I met some other owner occupants and we’ve been doing what we can to fight it, through the City of Boston and its process (the work was in violation of City code).

Meanwhile, I became active in a local group working for green and open spaces in my area of Boston: The Allston Brighton Green Space Advocates (check out the ABGSA Facebook page here). And I gained certification as a ‘Master Urban Gardener’ through the Boston Natural Areas Network (BNAN)’s ‘MUG at Home’ program. For the latter I needed a home garden to work with, and, tired of the weeds, and having nothing but one nice tree (a dogwood, guerilla-gardened into the otherwise bleak landscape) behind my condo to work with, I figured that it could only be improved! I got the help of some other residents and owners, and the urban garden was begun! We got some freebies from BNAN events and friends, and some things cheap from plant sales… and figured that at least we could enjoy the back a little more for a while, even if it was doomed to be mowed down.

Still, after all that, I realized (back to my exit strategy… !) that having a mortgage was tying me down to a job that I didn’t really enjoy, that felt lacking in purpose and meaning in the lives of the people I was helping. Gardening was feeling a lot more enjoyable, and purposeful… SO. I needed to not worry about my mortgage, and I needed to have a date when I was going to be done with my job. And a dream - an idea, of what I would go and do, that felt entirely exciting and fun, and could also help me get the kind of job I wanted.

That meant I had to prepare to sell my apartment, set a date for departure from my unfulfilling job, and figure out what I would do next. I realized, in thinking about it, that I wanted to combine my love of cross-cultural, experiential learning – with my love for and newfound expertise in gardening, and working (in positive ways) and connecting with the natural world. It was going to be an exciting (= scary!), adventurous, complete leap of faith…