Las Heliconias - 7/7/10 - Kids Camp/La Finca de Abuelos!

[After a long break to negotiate, sell, and pack up apartment - picking up where left off! Look for future posts on Grand Canyon hike...]

Day one of volunteering for the 'Green' Camp for the kids was a whirlwind, and a really great experience! Perhaps my favorite day of the whole week, although each was wonderful in many ways. Because I found this day so rich, I am devoting a whole post to it...

The morning was playing 'Simon Says' with the kids, in English and Spanish, and several other activities including songs, until snack time, and preparing the space for lunch.

Then, I was whisked away to 'make tamales' without much warning... I was excited, it sounded like fun, but really wasn't sure what to expect. (At this point, I had learned enough to know to just roll with it - and Kim, who was going and had asked if I wanted to join her, was someone I thought it would be fun to get to know. She was obviously very involved in the camp and enthusiastic and affectionate with the kids). My sense was that although this would take me away from the kids and the camp, it would be a special thing to do, and a chance to spend some time getting to know people. I was not disappointed...!

Tamales, it turns out, are a very traditional and meaningful food in the Costa Rican culture - and this opportunity was very special indeed. For the entire enterprise - that ended up lasting the whole rest of the day! - we went to the sustainable farm of the 'abuelos' (grandparents - in particular, those of Donald, the coordinator of the volunteers - but they obviously were considered 'abuelos' by everyone, that is to say, people of importance and standing in the community). I didn't understand half of what was being said (that included many moments of not understanding ANYthing, and some times when I understood pretty much everything - but usually I got the gist of what people were talking about). Kim helped a lot, acting as my sometimes translator. But I was brought right into the whole process, all the action (and the laughter!, and good humor, that was obviously an important aspect of it), which began with the roasting of the banana leaves (taller than most of us!) - and that began with lighting the wood fire in a drum.

I was surprised to see plastic bags and small bottles put into the fire. My initial reaction was - oh, no! That's not healthy! But... maybe it's better than putting them in a landfill, never to decompose? I'm not sure - I had just never considered burning plastic an option - but I was able to put my assumptions aside, accept that it was okay there, and continue to take part. I got a

turn taking the big banana leaves, and slowly moving them over the fire, once we got it going (not entirely easy, since it's the rainy season and the wood was damp - there was a lot of smoke!). The leaves turned from a matte green to a shiny green, as they were heated.

Next, we cut them and cleaned them, into smaller and larger sizes (and piles). This took up most of the afternoon, and gave us a chance to get to know each other a little better. In between helping with this, there were interludes of: coffee break!

(homemade cheese from the finca!, homemade cakes, and milk from their cows, too!), motorcycle riding, helping the abuela (grandmother) make the 'masa' (corn meal filling for the tamales - cooked in a giant round iron bowl, with some potato, garlic, cheese, and broth), an international cast (us) singing 'Turn Around Bright Eyes' (80's pop song), and testing the

sugar cane juice extractor (after cutting some cane and eating it raw, too!). Also picture-taking of the 'hormigas' - fire-ants nearby - and lots and lots of laughter and chatting. Topics covered included - getting-to-know-you conversations in Spanglish and English about our families and what we are hoping to accomplish (etc), who-likes-who, racy jokes (didn't understand these precisely, but got the gist :), to name a few.

Kim told me that she was interested in learning the traditional ways, knew a lot about the rainforest birds (including already recognizing some 500! and knowing their calls) and animals, and wants to share with others what is so GREAT about her country, working as a nature guide. She already speaks English very well, and is learning German and Italian - at an age when many people here in the U.S. are still in college (only know one language), and women her age in her hometown were already getting married, and having children. She felt very passionate about teaching the children at the camp to know and appreciate the rich culture they're a part of.

I felt really fortunate to have a chance to be there, and to be taking part in such a special time of being together, and making something that was such an expression of who they were. I just basked in the glow of that occasion, and tried to add mine to it, too.

Later in the afternoon, and beginning of evening, we started to assemble the tamales. I could see the practical way that they can make a little go a long way. There was a table set up with all of the ingredients, and all the banana leaf pieces piled high. Included in each tamale: a scoop of masa on two leaves, then - rice (seasoned), one each of cooked potato and carrot pieces (seasoned in sauce), a thin slice of red pepper and celery, fresh cilantro, peas, and a piece of cooked seasoned meat. Then, they were wrapped up in the leaves and stacked in preparation for boiling the next day. I was told that tamales are a very traditional, very Costa Rican food, usually prepared for special occasions - like weddings. We were making them for the kids, who would visit the finca the next day, so that they could eat real tamales, made the traditional way. By the abuelos and the community.

It took us hours of going around (and around) the table, each with our own part of the tamale to add - young and old, male and female, telling stories and laughing. At one point, they let me go and lie down in a hammock for a bit (they could probably see that I was losing a little steam!). Finally, after it had gotten dark, and after hours of work, we were all done. Someone told me we made 250 tamales! We got to eat them then...

I don't know if I ever remember food tasting so good. In each bite was the satisfaction and preparation of an entire day... the nourishment of all the conversations, the jokes and teasing and laughs, all the ties between us that had been created, nurtured and supported. It felt like a blessing... I don't know how else to explain it. I had no words for how grateful I was to be included in such a special occasion, making food that was so much more than mere nourishment, the sum of its parts - it was an expression of who they are, and how they live. Good food for the body, heart, and soul.

¡Muchas gracias, todos! Muchisimas gracias...

Las Heliconias! : Volunteering Part 1 7/4 - 7/6

From San Ramón, I traveled to Alajuela, near the international airport, where I met up with all of the i-to-i volunteers who were starting their volunteer placements at the same time as me. We had a typical Costa Rican dinner together (Casado and Tamarindo!) and an orientation the next morning. They said to remember that even though to us, it might look like things are in chaos - the Costa Ricans will know what is going on. Relax, and go with the flow...

I met the one other volunteer that was placed at Las Heliconias with me, a 17-year old from Scotland named Mark, and we got a quick orientation to the site and the area, by the man that coordinates all of the conservation placements in (and near) Costa Rica. Las Heliconias is an eco-lodge, on the edge of Tenorio Volcano National Park, nestled at the edge of the rainforest on the outskirts of the town of Bijagua. It looked absolutely gorgeous, a little remote, and not so built up. Perfect!

Our adventure to get there that day involved waiting with Fernando at the bus station (...and waiting...?) to get on the bus labeled 'Upala' - the biggest town past Bijagua - where the bus route terminated. Then, we had to be sure to tell the driver that we wanted to stop at Bijagua. We did that, and went to settle in...and then were asked to stand up. Looking around, and interpreting what little Spanish we could make out, we realized that they were making sure that the women and children were seated first. This made sense. Soon, a seat was found for me, and I was gestured toward it. I must admit that I was grateful.

Riding in a bus in Costa Rica is a very different experience than what you find here in the States. We learned quickly that it is not unusual to stand - for a trip that lasts a few hours! - and that you have to pay attention to know where you are en route, and when you've arrived at your destination. Poor Mark had motion sickness, because it is also usually a bit more up and down and curvy on the roads than what one might be used to. At a certain point, we stopped for a bathroom/snack break, which was welcome. Then when it came time to pay, we realized that the money we had been given wasn't enough. Thankfully, we had enough of our own in Colones at that point to cover it.

Afraid that we might miss the stop, I was paying careful attention, and made sure we got out when we arrived in Bijagua. It was, of course, raining. Hard. We had been told that there would be a taxi waiting for us, that knew where to go. There was none. There was a number we were given to call. The man that answered didn't really speak English, and my Spanish was still pretty poor. I found someone at the bus stop who spoke a little English, and we managed to get from that interaction that the man could pick us up for 3,500 Colones. But we thought we might be at the wrong stop, and that he was refusing to come and get us from the other? Finally, we saw a taxi at the restaurant across the way, and he took us up for about that much. (And again, thankfully, we had the cash to cover it!).

So, we finally arrived... after a steep climb in the taxi. It was beautiful (and still raining), and we went to the office to introduce ourselves. We said we were the volunteers that were supposed to arrive that day from i-to-i - and kind of got blank looks. We said, we were told to speak to Donald? Donald was one of the people there, but he seemed to be surprised that we were there. Not quite sure we were supposed to be there. Eventually all seemed to be sorted out... but, it was a little less than the warm and welcoming arrival we had expected.

Heeding the advice we were given, we took it in stride, and settled in to our quarters - taking in the glorious view. Lake Nicaragua in the distance, and Miravalles Volcano standing majestically across the valley. Right there, at the lodge, one felt the forest all around, teeming with life - many flowers and sweet smells and sounds - and, of course, the verdant, mossy trees seeming to spill out from the path entrances, and rise up over the rooftops.

As it happens, there was a kids camp happening that week, that Donald was helping to coordinate. My guess is that perhaps this was taking so much of his attention, that it had slipped by him that we were arriving that day. We were told that we would talk with Donald that night, or the next morning, about what we could do for our volunteer work. The possibility of helping with the Green Camp was offered, and we said we'd be happy to do that.











The first day went by, and there was no talking to Donald. The camp, we would come to know, took up quite a lot of each day. So, we swept the floors,and met the forest by walking the rain-soaked bridges path with Will (nicknamed 'Pepino') to clear slippery leaves, and otherwise took it easy. I noticed that the ground cover, that kind of looked like clover - was all 4-leafed. And that seemed right. That night, I was invited to dance a little salsa, as there was a little party happening. (As far as I knew, this happened every night? ;-)

Also, as it turned out, there was a young woman who had volunteered with i-to-i the previous summer, and worked with the kids camp they did then - who had returned, to help out again with the camp this year. She brought a friend along to join her, and we had arrived just after them. They were the reason for the party I attended briefly, and I had met them then (without realizing who they were). Laura and Sarah, from Wisconsin.

They were assigned to teams with the kids' camp, and we got more of an introduction to this impressive endeavor on our next full day of volunteering...

Capturing butterflies... San Ramón 7/1 - 7/4/10

My purpose, partly, in starting to write this blog was to document experiences, especially my travels. ...And somewhere along the way, just living in the moment took over (which is not a bad thing!). It's also been a bit to process, and not having time for that (while on my travels), has made it a little harder to be able to write about it.

At one point during this time in San Ramón, while doing some work with my host (more about that below), I spent an afternoon trying to catch a picture of butterflies that were coming and going quite frequently, fairly present and constant - and yet very hard to capture in a still moment, and put in that frame. In sitting down to write this segment, I realized that it was a good metaphor for more than just that day's story. It is also representative of all of the stories (not just my own) that I will feel compelled to share - and for what it is I'm trying to do (and perhaps…the way that this is ultimately impossible to achieve fully, but still worth attempting; like any good idealistic or creative impulse, that spurs us into action!).

So… early July, in San Ramón. I was only there for a few days, but I cannot imagine my trip without that experience. In the way that I believe things happen when you are on the 'right' path somehow - I ended up in what felt like the right place at the right time. And with a good working 'frame' for the part of my travels that happened next. I will attempt to give you all a good enough 'snapshot' to get a sense of the life within it…

I spent 2 1/2+ days visiting with my host, Dr. Miguel Karian, Director of Earth Education International (EEI). I stayed at the Hotel San Ramón, where he knows the guys that work there (it's where participants stay on the short programs).

The hotel is only a few blocks walking from the EEI Office, the Parque Central (and the central part of town), the bus station, the market (such a rich sight for the eyes, rich place for the palate!),

and easy walking distance from the two Universities (one of which holds the classrooms that the programs use). Also within that radius were most of the restaurants where we ate (I tried a lot of typical/ traditional foods on the menus, recommended and translated for me - ¡Gracias, Miguel!).

I quickly learned, especially by watching it happen, that taking the time to chat with people that you know - especially people that you have a working relationship with - is very important. I didn't understand everything that was said… but I did pick up something of the tone; it seemed quite good-natured, easy-going - and there was a sense that there was time for it, that it was enjoyed. All of the places that we visited usually had people there to see and chat with. My sense was that part of showing me around, was also a chance for him to check in with people, and maintain those important relationships.

I had offered my time as a volunteer, in exchange for learning about the operation of the programs and talking about the emerging interest in sustainability in the study abroad profession - and he had given some thought to a project that I might be able to help with. The thing that seemed to make the most sense was to work on developing a document that outlined the different sustainability practices that were followed - from the re-use of paper in the printer, to the way that there is as much community integration as possible - that represented what made the program itself 'sustainable.' This is something that I had a pretty good sense of and interest in - although not the theory behind it - already. And as much as he had designed and implemented it all - it was obviously something that was now more intuitive and less conscious knowledge on his part.

Having been around town a little bit, and visited the people that helped him make it happen, and seen and talked about what went into the programs (especially the importance of having the students hear people's own compelling and inspiring stories) - gave me a sense before we started this work, of what it was he was talking about - of what we were trying to articulate. So my task was to help him to think more concretely about what he does, and to help him to organize those practices into some kind of framework that highlighted what made them valuable in terms of 'sustainability.' We looked on websites to see what else had been written on the topic, and to double check our sense of what this important word and concept meant, against the online literature - in particular, as far as education was concerned.

At one point, we noted that there didn't seem to be anything like this document we were working on out there that we could find. It seemed like it needed a good name. We decided to call it - as it was proving to be a good self-assessment tool - the 'Sustainability Assessment Inventory', or 'SAI.' We daydreamed that someday, this moment of creation would be remembered…the day when the SAI was born. :)

I know that I enjoyed this collaboration, and I think that the feeling was mutual. We seemed to complement each other well, and work well together - and it felt really good to be useful to someone doing such good work, work that I believe is helping the world to be a better place! That is so important, I realized, and had been so lacking in previous jobs I've had - I know this intellectually, but to have the experience of feeling what it's like, to have what I do naturally be so helpful, and for someone/something that is doing something I care about - was very satisfying. There was a kind of integrity for me, too, adding to that - in the way that I was learning, experientially, about sustainability, by helping a program that taught it!

It was also fun. We ate mamones and rambutans from the local farmers market, we were up on the roof deck with beautiful views all around, sipping tea made from fresh mint and stevia (from a planter there on the roof), and there were butterflies zooming in and out of the bushes and flowers around us as we were working. I kept trying to get a picture of the butterflies…and I finally managed one or two decent ones. There was a poem I started…in our trying to put into words something so real and important, but that is hard to articulate…and the metaphor of trying to catch a butterfly in a frame…something so vital and in motion, so precious and delicate…important to appreciate, but hard to capture (and not certain if you really can – should?).

My time in San Ramón was also good on a personal level, as we had many thoughtful conversations about many things (and I love those!) – and because seeing someone having the kind of integrity with their work and their programs that I like to have in life in general… reminded me of who I want to and try to be (and that can be harder to live up to, when you are not around others doing the same thing). It reminded me of the importance of trying to live what you believe. That what happens…happens, and for some reason - even if we don’t know what it is. Whether or not we understand how, if we are listening to our heart, and acting accordingly – we are on the right path, and will be okay. (You know?).

This time helped me to acclimate culturally, as well: I learned (by living more within it) about 'Tico Time' ('Ticos' are how Costa Ricans are referred to) - how things don't happen according to a preset schedule so much. It's more about getting to things when they make sense, or whenever they happen. I got to hear more Spanish, and start to understand more of what was being said, of the particular accent and way of talking in Costa Rica. And I was able to learn more about the economics of the country, that tourism that preserves the natural environment and sustains traditional culture is more helpful and sustainable, and foreigners coming in to make money without thought to these things - and Costa Ricans who go along with it - are what is hurtful (to put it very simply! :).

As a special treat, on the day I left on my first visit, he took me to the 'finca' (farm) of a woman that he knows. She and her husband have cultivated an organic coffee farm, and interspersed the coffee plants with trees that provide shade (coffee develops best in shade). It was impressive to see, the dark green leaves of the coffee plants, and all of the other trees that grow amongst them, providing shade - just the sense of abundance and life. (And the work that went in to building it up - and required to keep up with it!). There were chickens, that she adores, and they give eggs, and make fertilizer. And also a lot of herbs, and sharing of information on the medicinal benefits and culinary uses of plants. I learned that the work of the farm and financial concerns are prompting them to sell the land…and it is not certain that the next owners will be stewards of it, care for it the way they have. This is still a problem in Costa Rica - that so much of the preservation/conservation is still dependent on individuals, and their choosing to make that commitment.

… I went on from San Ramón feeling a bit more acclimated: I had heard a lot of Spanish, gained some cultural insights, and was ready for an adventure. I felt I had made a new friend, and a good connection. It was a little hard to leave, but I was ready to go on... to aim my 'lens' at the next bit of inspiring life that I might find, in the hopes that what I can capture of it will help encourage others' hopeful flights and flittings…

Leaving Puntarenas - ¡Hola, San Ramon! (7/1/10)

Whew!...(even more to catch up on...!). So, continuing chronologically, the day I left the 'all-inclusive' hotel in Puntarenas, the first of July 2010, we had some time in the morning, after saying goodbye to the sweet, happy newlyweds and everyone else we had met.








We took some pictures of lizards, said goodbye to the bouquet I caught, finished up some things around the hotel...and finally had the chance to go and see the monkeys up the road (I'd been wanting to do that ever since I heard about it the first day!).









Now, I know that it may not be the smartest conservation strategy, and I accept that I may have participated in a kind of tourism that is not ideal... but still, speaking for myself personally, it was pretty cool to be driven to this private land, where you pay a few colones to the people who live there, and the taxi driver calls out 'Monkey Man!' - and (relatively) wild monkeys come out of the trees and take banana bits out of your hands, in their monkey-like way. (And off your head, and your shoulder...we found out :-).

I'm going to try to upload a video or two, but in the meantime, here are some photos to give you an idea. Terribly cute. 'Mono cara blanca' (white-faced monkey) is the Spanish name for them. In short, it felt a lot more fun and even authentic an experience for the last day there than sitting by the pool would have been. Our taxi driver/ guide for the

experience, Alberto, seemed genuinely impressed by our antics (and enthusiasm) with the monkeys, although I'm sure he's done it many, many times.

After that, we got our stuff together and met up with the driver, I (being the sap that I am, and knowing it was goodbye to my friend and the time there getting to know everyone better - that I was striking out on my own and the rest was a bit less certain!) got a little teary, and then we were off: me to San Ramón to continue my adventures, and Ann to the airport to fly home.

As fun as that had all been... I was craving a more authentic experience in Costa Rica. I knew that what we had experienced at the hotel was a bit sheltered, a bit more touristy than everyday life for most people in the country. I was looking forward to practicing more Spanish, and really feeling more immersed in the culture.

As San Ramón was on the way to the airport, I got dropped off first. I said goodbye, got my stuff settled a little bit in my hotel room, and was able to call my contact there and let him know that I had arrived, as per our arrangements. The Katy-on-her-own-in-Costa-Rica adventure was about to begin...!

I had been in email contact with (Dr.) Miguel Karian, who runs an experiential, interdisciplinary study abroad program focused on teaching 'sustainable global leadership' (Earth Education International), and who has been active in the developing interest group promoting sustainable practices in the profession of international education. It sounded, from what I had learned, like the kind of program that I wanted to learn more about, and help to promote - and I was very interested in talking to him about his perspective on what's happening in sustainability within the field of study abroad (yes, here you can say to yourself - 'Katy, you are such a nerd!' ...and I cannot argue :-).

I met up with him for dinner that night, and it was fun to put a face and real person with the emails. As it happens, there was a good project that I was able to help him with, we are fellow leapers of faith toward what we are passionate about - and he was an excellent guide and resource. My time in San Ramón was well spent! More on that next...

Catching up....! Part 1: 6/30/10....

Hello everyone reading this (whoever you are!...?). I have not been so good about posting in a timely manner....but a lot has been going on! So, in an attempt to remedy that, I will try to catch you all up, and then maybe go back and 'people' my words with good images later. There is so much to describe, so much I've seen, and done... it is a little hard to know where to begin.

So, I'll start chronologically... but there is some musing and cultural thoughts and insights that will want to find their way in here somewhere, too.

Tuesday (6/30) I went on a zipline 'canopy tour' with some of the people in my group (from the wedding). This is now a pretty popular kind of tour in Costa Rica, I've learned, and I have to say - it was pretty fun (and in our case, a little more exciting than you might hope for!). We began on horseback, then ziplined down above the river, and got to stop for a swim at one of the (many) waterfalls along the way. For me, especially - having facilitated adventure-based learning programs and rock-climbing, and ridden on horses when I was younger - it was great to have the opportunity to do something like that in such a beautiful, lush place - and to talk to the people facilitating it here. They were very friendly, and professional, and it was nice to have that human/cultural connection.

On the way to the top of the zipline course, we rode on horseback. We made it to the top of the ridge, and had a wonderful view all around. Donald, the guide that took up the rear, told me that the mountains were called 'Montes de Oro' - because there was gold in them, and a mine, but not in this area, a little ways away. It used to be that anyone could go in the mountains and look for (and possibly find) gold, but now it's all regulated. We passed the oldest horse, now out to pasture, and saw the working dogs come up, that help out with the horses. My horse's name was 'Blanco'. Blanco liked to zigzag on the steep downhills, and trot when it got too slow on the even parts. At the end of the riding, the horses just turned around, and started walking back (with the dogs). I was glad that I had taken the opportunity to chat with Donald on the way.

One of the best parts about the zipline down was watching my friends' 8-year old twin girls (who had been afraid to do other things we'd done around the water the day before) step right up and show the rest of us how it was done! Rose, one of the two, just went right up and got hooked in - first! And zip!... off she went. Others (adults) were a little scared, but after that happened, felt that they had no excuse not to do it!

The thing that was the scariest, however, came later. We were stopped at one point, waiting for all of the facilitators to show up, and the (usual) afternoon rain began, just a little at first. Then, it became a truly heavy rain... and then, a thunderstorm. The facilitators were trying to get us out as quickly as possible, but it was a different kind of experience in the rain (the gloves that you use to 'break' were not behaving the same when wet, and we were heavier with soaked clothes, etc.). It added an element of real adventure, to be zipping through the rain, and over the river, now swollen a muddy red, and gushing even faster. We had six ziplines left when the rain started - and I just about got the hang of it (after having to be pulled in on one) when I flew down the last one.

Then I waited. My friend Ann was supposed to be right behind me. And I waited. Thankfully, I was able to wait inside a van...but it was a while before we knew what was going on. Then, one of the people from the tour came over and talked in Spanish with my van driver, Miguel. Miguel, who spoke only a little English, was motioning with his hands - and one of them looked like it was describing something dropping vertically - my heart skipped a beat - but then he looked like everything was okay... so I asked - 'mi amiga - está bien?' Oh, yes, okay, was the answer...but still, that didn't look good!...

She eventually came down off the zipline, and came over, but was visibly shaken up. She told me the story, and her heart was beating very, very fast. Lightning had struck the zipline cable, as she was getting hooked in for the run. She had been shocked through her gloves, and the guide helping her, too. He said that he'd been working there a year, and had never experienced anything like that. We were all relieved that she was okay, and I decided that as much fun as the day was overall - that was the most excitement (of that kind) that I wanted on this trip!

(For anyone doing something like this in Costa Rica - especially, but anywhere, really! - I would recommend that you NOT do it in a thunderstorm(!), and that you take the opportunity to talk to the people facilitating it, too. They are likely to be friendly, appreciate your interest, and can add a lot to the experience, in terms of a sense of place, and a human/cultural connection. I will always remember those guys, and that place, with gratitude.)

Isla Tortuga 6/28/10

Monday we went to an island off the Nicoya Peninsula called 'Isla Tortuga' (or 'Turtle Island').






I saw some amazing island veiws, experienced a big catamaran (complete with bar, and fruit snacks served on deck), ...


























































(Tortuga beach on the left in photo below >)




... went snorkeling (saw some cool fish), pet a sleeping peccary, met a parrot, met some great people from San Jose, got to know the folks in our group a little better, basked in the sun, and swam in the blue-green salt waters in the rain.






The deck hands on the boat that brought us there also served us lunch (which was delicious!) on the island under tarp and tent. Next to the 'peligroso!' (danger!) un-culled coconut grove (they could fall on your head) - where we were serenaded while we ate by a two-person wooden xylophone, and drum.

Then, on the return trip, we averted the afternoon storms that we could see ahead on the coast, and rolling through the distant mountains. Here are some pictures to give you an idea...

...ah, what a great day.